From Measurements to Mockups

Now that we finally had our sketches, it was time to start drafting patterns and creating sample versions (or “mockups”) of the garments. The first step was to take an extensive set of Margaret’s measurements and use them to create a uniquely customized dress form. The photo above shows a few different forms in the […]
Retrospective: Katie’s bias cut silk charmeuse wedding dress

This is my gorgeous sister-in-law Katie. She got married in 2006 and wore the very first Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture dress ever made. Before the blog, before the website, before the logo, and almost before the studio, Katie accepted a wedding gift of a custom wedding dress, a feat I had never attempted […]
The Lila Rose “Bustle” Challenge

Lila Rose’s mockup was almost ready, with the main exception being the “bustle”. As you may remember, we changed the sketch several times before deciding on the design above. Lila Rose definitely wanted a bustle type structure on the back of her skirt. It would be hidden under a removable train for the ceremony, and […]
Creating a Body Double

Have I mentioned that I love pattern drafting? The first thing that a patternmaker needs to do after taking a full set of measurements is to use them to create a body double. There are two ways to pattern: draping and flat pattern. In draping, you are physically manipulating fabrics in three dimensions on a […]
I love flat patterning.

For custom garments, there are two methods to create a pattern: draping and flat patterning. Basically, draping is when the patternmaker pads a dressform to the measurements of the wearer and uses a inexpensive fabric to “sculpt” the design directly onto the form, pinning, cutting and drawing as needed. This fabric “pattern” can then be […]
Leah and the Blog pt. 5 (Draping and Drafting)

I use a combination of draping and flat patterning when making a dress. Draping is where you physically manipulate fabric (by cutting, marking and pinning) directly onto an expertly padded dress form. Flat pattern is when you use measurements and formulas to draft the shapes directly onto the paper. My method usually involves a […]