Déjà Vu: Tiffany’s Mockup Dress #2!

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

After Tiffany’s first mockup fitting, I was ready to use the edited patterns and original polyester mockup dress to create a second mockup dress for a second mockup fitting. As I sorted through the photos to create this blog post, I realized that everything looked very similar to what I’ve shared before! So it’s kinda Déjà Vu for Mockup #2!

Second Time’s a Charm!

Since there were so many tweaks made to the bodice during the first mockup fitting, I needed to completely recut and create a new mockup top for Tiffany to try on in Round Two.

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

Same for the new-and-improved collar!

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

My assistant Rebecca joined in on the fun- ripping apart the first mockup to reuse the skirt fabric- as I cut and crafted new-and-improved midriff bands.

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

Rebecca basted the new mockup collar together so I could try it on the new neckline.

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

While I loved the look when I tested it in paper, seeing this new collar design in fabric on the form made me question whether it might be too large and overwhelming for my petite bride.

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

With a few pins and a little imagination, I was able to edit it into something that seemed like it would really suit Tiffany’s natural beauty and style!

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

So I altered the pattern another time and created another collar!

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

I added the now-even-more-new-and-even- more-improved collar to the new-and-improved bodice and midriff…

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

…and pinned everything crudely to the form. I was very happy with how everything was shaping up!

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

Once the top was ready, I made the pattern corrections for the skirt, which was a little too long for Tiffany in the first mockup. Since the fullness of the original hem was nice, I took off the extra length at the top.

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

After pulling out the original gathering stitches, I lined up my corrected pattern pieces on the original skirt fabric (without taking it apart) to mark the changes.

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

Any added width from this change was incorporated into the new-and-improved gathers which I basted to the top of this new mockup dress.

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

YEEEESSSS!!!!

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

I was loving this new collar design!

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

But I also remembered- Throughout our design process, the bride and I had gone back and forth considering a less rounded/more squared collar idea. I realized that I could also show the squared idea to Tiffany pretty easily with a couple of tucks.

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

The tucks would be eliminated if this collar design became Tiffany’s choice (so a little imagination is needed) but I was excited to be able to show her two designs in this one mockup!

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

Tiffany’s Second Mockup Fitting

With the second test dress complete, Tiffany returned to my studio. She loved seeing the dress on the form…

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

…and was excited to try it on!

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

She was happy with the proportion changes…

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

…and the fit was much improved!

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

We tried the square collar idea (which looked great!)…

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

…but we were both in love with the rounded style!

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

The final choice was made! Which is your favorite collar for Tiffany?

The Edits

After the fitting Tiffany had done some more thinking and I received an email with two additional design changes that she wanted for her custom wedding dress. The first was to eliminate the peak in the center completely, for a rounded neckline. She shared this new inspiration as a guide.

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

The second change was for the short sleeves to be even more rounded and to follow even closer to the body. I warned her that having the silk hug the top of the arm really closely might look really great when her arms are relaxed, but this could restrict her movement on her wedding day. Understanding the risks, Tiffany confirmed that she wanted to move forward with the look she preferred– even if it might not be as comfortable.

I agreed to these two final design changes, but since this was a RUSH and her wedding date was rapidly approaching, we were running out of time. Tiffany would not be able to make any more design changes (or go back to any previous version) and she would not be able to try on these two new changes before the dress was constructed in silk.

But she could see them! I printed my rough edits from the previous sketches to create a new final sketch incorporating all the changes we’d made throughout the design and mockup process.

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

I share the process of how I created the original custom sketch in this post. To make a new version with changes, I scribbled on the back of my printout…

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

…traced around the lines…

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

…which revealed a faint outline…

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

…for me to fill in and show off the changes in a fresh new (and final) sketch.

Whew! Isn’t it cool!?

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

I sent the sketch to Tiffany- and got the final thumbs up!

Which meant that…

Déjà Vu: Tiffany's Mockup Dress #2! by Brooks Ann Camper Bridal Couture

I was ready to add the edits to the pattern pieces and start making her one-of-a-kind custom wedding dress! HOORAY!

Since so much work was done during the mockup process, creating the real dress (in gorgeous silk satin from Mulberry Silks!) should be fairly straight-forward with very few surprises or unpicking. Mockups For The Win!

 

NEXT POST: Wedding dress construction commences!

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3 Responses

  1. Hello Ann,

    I’m still very attentive as soon as I receive your mail.
    This creation is original and as always very well proportioned in relation to the measures of the customer.
    I am finishing my third year in patronage, I have been looking for a reference”tailor-made sewing”
    You are definitely my professional “dress of ceremony” reference on the net.
    Bravo and thanks again the share !

    Dominique from Belgium

  2. Once again, love watching along with your process.
    The collars give quite different looks, a lttle bit Snow White-ish even. The main thing is that the bride is happy on her big day.

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Hi there! I'm Brooks Ann.

I’m a former professional costumer and couture dressmaker for one-of-a-kind bridalwear located in Hillsborough, North Carolina, who teaches custom garment sewing too the sew-curious online.

My blog mostly follows along with the couture process of how each heirloom-quality custom wedding dress was made from idea to wedding day, as well as other interesting tidbits related to sewing, weddings, and body positivity.

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