After working with bride-to-be Erin in our design consultation and sketching a custom design onto her figure, I couldn’t wait to hear her thoughts. I was so excited when she accepted the commission saying “I LOVE the design and how you incorporated all our ideas!”
(After I jumped up and down a few times), it was time to get to my favorite part: patternmaking!
I invited Erin back to my studio, to sign the contracts, discuss any changes, and take an extensive set of measurements. I took over 40 measurements and several photos in order to create a custom dress form that is exactly Size-Erin.
Creating a Custom Dress Form
I start with a dress form that is smaller than my bride. I then take strips of batting and pads to sculpt her unique body using the photos and the measurements.
Every body is unique. Using a replica of my bride to draft patterns from scratch will help me create a dress that will look great on her. In custom sewing, “sizes” don’t matter at all.
Once I’m happy with my customized dress form, I cover it with neutral fabric.
Creating Custom Patterns
Patternmaking using a dress form is called draping. In draping, you manipulate and pin inexpensive fabric on the body double until it resembles your sketch in 3D form.
I pin and draw all over these fabric pieces. When I remove them, I am able to transfer my markings to paper to create custom patterns.
Creating a Mockup Dress
My paper patterns are used to craft a complete mockup dress!
This test dress is simply a first draft made out of inexpensive fabric for Erin to try on her first fitting. We will cut, pin, adjust, and draw all over this test dress in order to perfect the custom fit and design on her unique figure.
I couldn’t wait for Erin to try on this first draft!
NEXT POST: Erin’s first mockup fitting!